(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)
UNIDENTIFIED CROWD: (Chanting) Leo. Leo. Leo. Leo. Leo. Leo. Leo.
SCOTT SIMON, HOST:
Pope Leo is holding an open-air Mass in central Paris this morning. Well over half a million people are there for it. There has been huge fervor for his four-day visit in this traditionally Catholic yet staunchly secular nation. The American pope seems to be appealing to both sides of French society. NPR's Eleanor Beardsley is there. Eleanor, thanks for being with us. Tell us where you are and what you're seeing.
ELEANOR BEARDSLEY, BYLINE: Well, Scott, I've been out here for hours along with what police say were 700,000 people along the Avenue Champs-Elysees between the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la Concorde, where he was giving the mass that just ended. It's still breaking up. I actually saw him in his Popemobile, saw his smiling face. Anyway, it was just a sea of people out here, families laying down picnic blankets in the middle of what's usually a busy street. Anyway, here is a bit of the Pope speaking at this giant open-air Mass today.
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POPE LEO XIV: (Speaking French).
BEARDSLEY: He said, "we are all looking for love and happiness, but from what source are we trying to quench our thirst? Material goods, immediate satisfaction, little idols that promise happiness but leave our hearts empty." The pope said only God and a spiritual life could fill that void.
You know, pope mania has really gripped Paris. Pope Leo has gotten a rock star reception in the French capital. Last night, he held a mass in a packed Paris stadium for young people with fireworks and a concert atmosphere, and young people were out in force today at the mass. Here is 20-year-old Etienne Piot (ph).
ETIENNE PIOT: And he's very human. He's a very human pope. He speak to us with the simple words, and he said to us the words that we can understand as young persons.
SIMON: Eleanor, help us understand the excitement because France, as we said, is a very secular country, where the open display of religion can be discouraged.
BEARDSLEY: You're right, Scott. You know France is known historically as the eldest daughter of the Catholic Church, but strict separation of the church and state since 1905 means religion is really considered a private matter. Well, I think one reason is this is the first official pope visit since 2008, and observers say there's a hunger for a papal visit. You know, Pope Francis, Leo's predecessor, never came to France on an official visit. He didn't even come when they reopened Notre Dame Cathedral after it was burned in 2019, and, of course, Pope Leo held a mass there last night.
But a lot of people told me they appreciated this American Pope for how he could stand up to today's strongmen. They say he has an important moral authority in a world of disorder. And I spoke to 56 year old Laurence Ardin (ph), who traveled from Normandy to see the pope. She mentioned how the pope's grandmother was from Normandy, and she said she really appreciated the way Pope Leo spoke out last April when President Trump first threatened to annihilate the Iranian civilization. Here she is.
LAURENCE ARDIN: I think Donald Trump needs to have an opposition. He's the word of peace, and he has this role to give these words of peace that Donald Trump does not understand and does not listen at all.
BEARDSLEY: You know, I also spoke with Sophie Paradis (ph), who told me the pope's moral weight is needed more than ever. Here she is
SOPHIE PARADIS: His diplomatic-place - importance is heavy, as he is a contrepoint - a counterweight to the presidents of the big states as USA, Russia, China.
SIMON: Has the pope commented on his visit or the reception he's gotten?
BEARDSLEY: Well, this morning he said he is emerveille - amazed - by his visit. He lauded the number of young people who are returning to the faith. Religion experts say the Catholic Church is having somewhat of a resurgence in France. But he also called for concrete action. This morning he visited a migrant shelter before the Mass, and he called to see those who are invisible and those that economics and culture have reduced to slavery. He called to honor the dignity of every human being.
SIMON: Where is he headed after Paris?
BEARDSLEY: After this mass, he's probably about to head out to the shrine city of Lourdes in the south of France to pray and meet with the victims of clergy abuse. On Monday, he will head to the eastern city of Metz, where European leaders are expected to turn out for his speech. He's expected to urge Europe to play a bigger role in bringing peace and restoring world order. A Vatican expert told me, Pope Francis said Europe was no longer vibrant. Leo thinks the opposite and will encourage Europe to assume its responsibility.
SIMON: NPR's Eleanor Beardsley in Paris. Thanks so much.
BEARDSLEY: You're welcome, Scott. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.
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